[in stitches] A Casual Shirt for My Fella

New shirt!

A few weeks ago it was so uncomfortably warm that the idea of cooking dinner brought on fears of combusting from the heat.  Our solution was to dine out at an air conditioned restaurant.  The second time that went out, I noticed my husband was wearing the same shirt as before.

"It's the only nice, comfortably shirt that I have," he explained.

He does have a few nicer-looking button-up shirts, but they're mostly polyester.  The shirt he was wearing was 100% linen, the perfect choice for a hot day.

In-progress

When we returned home after dinner, I began to look up possible shirt patterns for him.  I wanted a short-sleeve, button-front shirt with a collar, preferably with a yoke, too.  Vogue had exactly what I needed!

The next day, I headed to my local fabric store.  My husband wanted linen (which I can get inexpensively at LA's fabric district), but I thought I'd see what was available nearby.  I found two good 100% cotton options; a tiki print in blues and browns, and a red plaid.  I bought both.

The pattern recommended no obvious diagonals, so I purchased more of the tiki print than recommended.  Really the only issues were the yoke and collar, but the extra fabric allowed me to cut them on the cross grain to keep the pattern upright.

His "catalog" pose

The pattern and instructions were pretty straight-forward.  The project worked up quickly and easily. I was able to do everything by machine, too; including the buttons.

My husband loves the new shirt and claims it to be very comfortable.



While I've started the red plaid shirt, I haven't found time yet to finish it.  

[in stitches] A New Dress for Daughter

Years ago I picked up a vintage reproduction pattern of a tabard-style dress.  The pattern, no longer in print, featured a quick-to-sew "Walk-Away-Dress" that had no sewn sides.  Instead it wrapped from front to back, and back to front to create the closures at the sides.  I made one for myself and liked the dress well enough, but there were a few issues.  Minor ones, that kept me from making any more dresses from the pattern.

While browsing through one of my favorite sewing blogs, I saw an older post about the Walk-Away-Dress.  In the post, an updated version of the dress pattern is featured.  Alas, THAT gorgeous pattern has not been reissued.  But a similar pattern from Vogue was reissued (and is, of this writing, still available).

But there was still something that kept me from making the dress.


Flash forward to a week or so ago.  I had finished a very sewing-intensive costume and wanted something fun to make. Plus, I was hoping to work on something that could try out some new skills.

I decided to make the Vogue dress, but not for me, for my daughter.  I also decided that I wanted to try my hand at pattern drafting by adding a peter-pan collar to the dress.  My daughter chose a darling cotton lawn fabric of blue with dots of white and green.  For the collar, we settled on a true red fabric.

As the pattern that I picked up ages ago was the wrong size for my girl, I did have to due some alterations.  I was excited to try out Nancy Zieman's Pivot and Slide technique.  The adjustments were so easy to make using the pivot methods and quickly produced a new, well-sized pattern.

I used my toile to underline the bodice, but decided against underlining the skirt.

The dress worked up quickly, though I did pause at one point to see if my local sewing machine shop had a specialty foot for attaching bias tape.  (They didn't, alas.)





















In putting together this dress, I did feel pretty good about my collar pattern and how that all came together.  It also proved to be another lesson on bias binding, but I've only concluded that I'd really rather just get a specialty foot and technology to the fiddly work for me.  And I think I may become a devotee of the pivot and slide technique.

I would like to make this pattern again--again with the collar, too.  I think that the collar really sets this dress apart.  Linen may be a nice choice, or another cotton lawn.  But if I did it for myself in the cotton, I would probably underline the skirt, too.

Do you like to try out new skills when you sew?  What sort of projects do you enjoy?

Gertie's LA Party for Better Sewing

I often feel that I'm the last to know about many of the ultra-fun, swanky offerings that the LA area has to offer to a vintage-loving, crafty mama like myself.  But by some miracle (Facebook), I was actually able to learn about a book signing and indoor "picnic" for Gretchen "Gertie" Hirsch in time to make plans to attend!

If you're currently scratching your head thinking, "who?" it's probably best that you just skip this post.  Well, or take a little time to enjoy the sartorial stylings of darling Gertie via her blog, New Blog for Better Sewing.  The title is a riff on the trusted old Vogue book of a similar name: New Book for Better Sewing.  Yours truly managed to score a copy (minus the dust cover) on eBay ages ago.  Alas, most of the patterns noted within the book are long out of print and hard to come by.  Gertie took the time and effort to track down all the patterns and construct each one, documenting the ordeal (and FUN) on her blog.

She's been something of a darling in the crafty community as of late, and why the heck not?!  She's a cute as a 1950's button!  But she's also smart as a whip, and a talented author and pattern-maker, too.  Her new book, aptly titled Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, is filled with information on sewing your own vintage-inspired garments.  Plus, it includes numerous patterns in a variety of sizes.  It's like a build-your-own-wardrobe book, just add notions, fabric, and time!

But as I was saying: book signing and picnic!

Independent fabric store, Sew LA, hosted the shindig a few weeks ago.  I wrangled my daughter, my copy of the Vogue book, and Gertie's text and made my way to LA for an afternoon with Gertie.  But first, I thought I'd go ahead and make and wear a little something from the book.  Time being short, I settled on making up a blouse.

Bow-tie blouse

The back

Driving from Long Beach to anywhere in LA will either take twice the amount of time suspected, or half.  In our case, we were there early.  I got a couple of shots of the space before it was packed with eager sewists.

Gertie brought along several pieces highlighted in the book

The studio set up with adorable photo space

A blurry shot of my girl

The obligatory "proof I was there" shot

As it was picnic themed, there was a terrific spread of appropriate foods, including veggie "piggies in blankets," deviled eggs, skewers, and potato salad!

The spread

Getting ready to stuff my gob

Gertie plays hostess

Another dress from the book in the background

A make-up artist was there doing vintage-styled make-overs

Gertie's book was available for purchase, natch, and part of a give-away

Gertie draws a winner--alas, it wasn't me

Taylor and I

 All told, we had a lovely time.  I was too shy to ask Gertie to do much more than sign my book.  Oh, I did show her my copy of Vogue's NBBS, taking pains to point out the sweet inscription from 1956: "For Linda Sue, Happy Birthday, July 21, 1956"

At any rate, now my copy of Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing has its own inscription.

[the medieval hausfrau] a clothing conundrum

I took some time this weekend to be "The Medieval Hausfrau."

Well, okay, that isn't quite true.  But "The Early Period Hausfrau" doesn't play on the name of this blog quite as well.

Viking-era 

I decided to pull out and wear a Viking-era dress and apron that I made years ago.  Viking-era clothing is certainly more comfortable than my usual Tudor-era garb, and as temperatures are getting warmer and warmer, I wanted to insure comfort.

Tudor-era

Unfortunately, I looked awful.  While much of my ghastly appearance could be directly attributed to my status as "Mom of a Toddler," some could not.  The dress just did not fit.  That's the bad news.  The good news is that my dress did not fit because it was too big.  I've lost too many inches for it look flattering, apparently.  The fullness of the skirt and apron were just perfect for casting my figure in a very prenatal light, apparently.  Thank GOODNESS no one asked me if I was pregnant.

In light of this new conundrum, I realize that I need to get behind my sewing machine again.  Frankly, I would LOVE to be sewing, but again my role as "mom" keeps me busy in just such a way to make sewing difficult when it's only the boy and I at home.  Since I have to be choosy about when I am able to sew, I think it best that I be selective about what to sew.

Bliaut

Prior to Declan, if a period silhouette caught my eye, I sewed up a basic dress.  As such, I have a couple of bliauts, a couple of Gothic fitted dresses, a couple of Viking-era dresses, some later period kirtles and over gowns, too.  Post-Declan I have to be particular and I am faced with a decision or two.

For anyone unfamiliar with the Society for Creative Anachronism, I'll provide a (very) brief summation of why I am even discussing old clothing.  My husband and I participate in a history group that attempts to recreate much of daily life, without the bad things like plague, for people who lived in the periods between 600 and 1600 AD.  So, I need something to wear when we gather en masse for a "war" or even for a day-event such as a local tournament or feast.  

14th century with hood

While some participants will stick closely to one particular time period and location, some will outfit themselves with clothes from multiple countries and multiple periods (as evidenced from my own collection outlined above).  As my free time for sewing and my closet space shrinks, I have to rein in my own "oooh, shiny" magpie behavior in favor of something more focused.  No more games of "pick a period" from my closet.

14th century

Since my preferred era clothing is not always the most comfortable for outdoor day events, I think I can justify picking two periods to focus on.  But now comes the hard part: which two?  Tudor era is the easy choice, it's filling in the other that leaves me frustrated.

Do I go with 14th century "high Medieval" to make use of the fitted gowns I currently have (but would likely need to alter)?  Do I go with something earlier to better match my husband's persona and interests?  Do I go with something altogether different?  ARGH.  Have I mentioned that I am not the best at making decisions?

On a perhaps related note, why do I always look so terrible in SCA photos?!  The best of the lot is the one with Declan in it.

Photos nabbed ages ago from Facebook, by the way.  Alas, I've forgotten the photographers by now.   If they're yours and you'd credit, please let me know.  

ALL DONE: Cherry, border-print dress

Well, as of last night my new cotton dress is finished!

Yesterday, I added the fuller skirt (definitely the way to go), put in a lapped zipper, hand sewed on buttons, hemmed the skirt, and made a matching cummerbund.

This morning, I decided to give it a wash (I did chose cotton partly for easy care, after all).  In the wash, the cummerbund lost a bit of gathering stitches (easily mended), and the dress bodice lost some stitches tacking down the facings (another easy fix).

Post-mortem:

• I MUCH prefer using my toile/muslin as my pattern (versus using the tissue paper).  Using the waxy paper, I transferred the pattern information from the tissues to the muslin, which I later used as not only my pattern, but my underlining.
• I'm in love with underlining.  It's given the bodice great body, and since I've used cotton I've not compromised the dress' comfort.  I did not underline the skirt, which is fine, but I think that next time I will.
• Horsehair hem tape is divine, but I think that I'll try to find the better (thicker than a half-inch) tape for a full skirt.
• Fitting by my lonesome is a less-than-ideal, but necessary evil at this point.  While I have a helpful husband and daughter, I am awful at getting the information for fitting from my head to my mouth thus negating their usefulness in such an endeavor.  My dress form is a close, but not an exact match thus leading to a few inconsistencies.
• It's a mixed blessing when a dress started a week ago ends up being a touch too big by the time I'm finished thanks to more weight loss.  Yay for being closer to my pre-pregnancy size, boo for now having a slightly large dress.
• Printed border cotton will lead to some frustration when the weave shifts a touch to reveal whiter areas of the thread.  Alas, it's only a cute cotton frock.

Step Four: Scratch Head and Mumble

ARGH.

I attached the skirt and I'm now debating whether or not I should redo it.  It's okay, but not nearly as full as I'd like.  My reasons for not immediately ripping it off and adding more (I have plenty of fabric left) is that I hate, HATE, HAAATE gathering fabric.  Just gathering the fabric to attach it to the skirt, I broke the thread once and nearly dissolved into all manner of cursing.

If I had some cording, I could do the zig-zag trick, but I'm wishing instead for enough money to buy a ruffler foot.

Edited to add: I've ripped the skirt off. Now just trying to determine the best amount of fabric to give the gathered skirt a nice, full silhouette.

Step Three: Construct bodice

Pre-adjusted side-seams

My dress bodice is almost complete!

After transferring my pattern to my toile, I basted it together and attempted to fit it to myself. This is always a challenge as I loathe bugging anyone for help. Typically I a test-fit by trying the item on, observing problem areas, then putting the garment onto my dress form to make corrections.

This time the fit was largely okay--would've worked for off the rack--but was a touch large in the bust. Fit fine around the waist, though, so I just lengthened a couple of darts and made note that I still might need to take in the side seams a touch.

Checking the side-seams

Once my toile was altered, it was time to hand baste it to the fashion fabric--a process that went quicker than I figured and was more enjoyable than assumed.

Tuesday I was able to assemble the bodice. Another test-fit revealed that I would need to adjust the side seams, but it was easy work.

Post-adjustment--looks MUCH better!

The most challenging step so far was in trying to turn the bias casing that was supposed to be the button loops. I tried with my bodkin. I tried with needle and thread as suggested in the pattern directions. Heck, even Brian gave it a go. We just could get the blasted tape to turn, so I grabbed some bias tape from my sewing kit and improvised.

Step Two: Prepare Pattern--check!

I bought several yards of muslin a while back.  While I didn't think that I had used it all, I must have.  I have searched high and low and it's not turned up.  Today I decided that enough was enough--if I was going to get sewing, I'd damn well better do so.

And, ta-da--PROGRESS has been made!

I decided that I wanted to employ more couture techniques in my garment construction.  Even though I am working up some very easy patterns, why not add some luxurious touches, right?  I decided that I am going to underline my border dress.  I found some lovely white cotton to use as both my toile and my eventual underlining.  I pressed the fabric and readied my supplies for cutting.

Because I am adding a couture touch to this dress, I took time to mark the sewing line on all my pattern pieces.  Additionally, I used the recently acquired waxy tracing paper to transfer my pattern information from the pieces to the underlining cotton.  The large paper is a DREAM to work with!  Yes, I did have to be careful about accidentally transferring some of the wax, but it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it could be.  I envisioned red fingers and smears of red on my work surface, but nope.  Only got a touch of red onto my fabric where the weight of my magnetic pin cushion touched my fabric to the paper.  Not bad at all!

Had I started earlier, I probably could have made good progress on stitching my thread tracing, but I'll leave that for tomorrow.  (Or maybe tonight after my jog/walk.)

Step One: Acquire Supplies--check

Have you checked out Craftsy.com yet?

Several months ago, I purchased the Sew Retro class by Gertie from Craftsy.  In it, she uses these large sheets of tracing paper to transfer pattern information to her fabric.  I figured that such paper would be easy to find at my local craft store, so set out to buy some.  Boy, was I wrong!  I struggled, and eventually settled for some small "meh" paper.  It worked, but what a pain.  Constantly repositioning my pattern pieces, and battling with the paper.  Ugh.

A few weeks ago, I decided to purchase the Couture Dress class by Susan Khalje from Craftsy.  I knew that I would be sewing a few things for some up-coming events and figured it would be lovely to add some couture elements to the garments.  Just like Gertie, Susan Khalje also uses the large rolls of tracing paper.  (If fact, it was probably Susan who turned Gertie onto the paper.)  This time, I paid closer attention to where they purchased their paper: Richard the Thread.

Come to find out, Richard the Thread is in my backyard here in southern California!  So today I finally took the time to drive up to purchase some paper.

Richard the Thread is mainly a supplier of corset-making goods.  Grommets, busks, boning, coutil, lacing cord, et cetera are all in stock at their store.  But they also have patterning supplies, dress forms, and even irons.  I was in need of their custom-made waxy tracing paper.  Each sheet is 26 inches by 39 inches and they carry a variety of colors to suit any fabric.  I picked up some red and some yellow, to cover most bases.  But they also carry a special light blue paper just for white fabrics.  (The wax on the paper is often permanent once transferred to fabric.)

The folks at Richard the Thread are lovely and very helpful, btw.  So I know that I will certainly be back at some point, not just when I run out of tracing paper.  I am already planning a corset for future.

SUCCESS!!

Apparently the Flying Spaghetti Monster is indeed touching my machine with His Noodly Appendage!

Brian just texted me to say that all is well and the machine is working!  Not satisfied with his text, I called him.  Apparently the lady at shop looked it over, rethreaded the machine, tweaked a few adjustments and TA-DA--working machine.

She told him that 90% of the time, when it appears that the trouble is in one of the fabric, the solution is found on the other side of the machine.  She suspects that the threading got all cattywampus some how.

I'm just pleased as punch that my machine is working again.  I cannot wait for Brian to return home with it.  Perhaps I can get something done today after all!

This photo has nothing to do with this post

Insert all manner of curse words here

(Note: I am typing this one-handed, thanks to a nursing baby D.  Please overlook any typos.)

I am ready to scream.  My sewing machine has failed me.  Again.

A few weeks ago, I got my crafty little hands on a copy of the Colette Sewing Handbook.  (As mentioned on this blog before.)  I was instantly inspired.  I immediately decided that i needed fabric.  A trip to the LA fabric was in order!

Alas, caring for an infant, plus lack of funds meant that several days on the calendar flew by before I finally pleaded with dear hubby for cash and settled on making a quick trip to a M&L Fabrics in Anaheim instead.  There I found some great cottons for a skirt, and an okay gaberdine for trousers.  No nice georgette or chiffon, though, for a blouse or two.  So, a fabric district trip is still in my future.

With fabric, book, patterns, and notions, I was ready for the most loathsome part of sewing--cutting the fabric.  I hate tracing the pattern (a necessity this time as I want to keep it intact for when I am back to a pre-pregnancy figure).  I abhor laying out the pieces.  I cringe at the thought of hunching over the table cutting out pieces.  Worst part of sewing, no doubt.  It isn't nearly as bad when I've had a nice large surface at just the right height, but our living space is so cramped these days that I must suffer to use what i have--our dining table in our over-full dining area.

A few days ago, I began the dreaded task.  Got the pattern transferred to paper, pressed the fabric, readied the cutting surface, laid out the fabric and began tracing the pattern onto the fashion fabric.  But before I could finish, life resumed and I returned to my domestic duties.  The following day, between lack of help with Declan and volunteer obligations, I got nothing done.  Then it was grocery day--another day of no progress.  Finally a day to work--today!

I finished all tracing, pinning, and cutting.  Readied the machine.  Cleaned it, threaded.  Was able to sew a few darts and had just moved onto zigzagging the pattern piece edges when it happened.  The machine started skipping stitches, the bobbin tension was a mess.  I rechecked for threads in the bobbin case--none.  I replaced the needle--problem persisted.  I cleaned the machine a second, then third, then fourth and fifth time.  Yet each attempted to sew produced the same maddening mess.

I was nearly as unraveled as my bobbin thread!

See, for most of my life as a sewist, I have had to suffer with inferior machines.  My mother was a cheapskate who could not fathom spending more than $75 for a machine.  But this machine is not, or rather was not supposed be like any of those other garbage sewing machines.  I spent a small fortune on it, for starters!  And it sewed like a dream at first!  A true workhorse, just like the salesman said.

Last winter, I decided to sew myself a new bag.  I was working on one of the folded handles when I broke a needle.  No biggie, just switched out the needle and tied to resume sewing, only it immediately broke that needle.  A third needle and a bit of troubleshooting and I see that something is terribly off.  The hook tip in the bobbin case was not moving in sync with the needle.  Naturally, this meant a trip to the shop for a repair.

I was dispirited to learn that the repair was bound to take weeks--and it did, three to be exact.  While I may happily go without sewing for several weeks, it is because I chose to do so.  To be in the middle of a project, but be forced to wait weeks to resume left me quite dejected.  But once the machine was fixed and cleaned, I happily resumed the purse.  (Which ultimately turned out only okay.  Lack of satisfactory hardware meant that I was left without the handle I had hoped for, but that's fuel for another post.)

Point of this digression being, as my machine was in the shop less than a year ago the last place thing that I'd want to have happen was yet another problem with the machine.

As I was near tears, I begged dear hubby to take the machine to the shop.  Visions of my dissolving into sobs on the showroom floor persuaded me to stay behind with the baby.  I was so hoping that Brian would arrive at the shop, the experts would look it over and chuckle at how some silly something or other caused my problems, quickly fix it, and all would be right with the world.  But I also knew that the odds that it would be some major problem were more likely given my luck.  The last thing that I need is another forced three-week hiatus from sewing.

I am writing all this up know in the hopes that it'll somehow allow for the universe to smile upon my misfortune.  Perhaps in committing my frustration to ePaper, the Flying Spaghetti Monster or whatever divinity will look down and decide that I need a well-earned break.  Just maybe, events will turn in my favor.

Let's hope, shall we?

This bloke is ready to teach my machine a thing or two

a smattering of updates

Video blog update has been made!  Find it here.

This is the pattern I am basing my ball dress on.

My life in the last week has been focused on sewing, sewing, and more sewing.  And all for the same damned "easy" garment.  Deciding that I would rather sew than buy this year's ball dress, I've been busy stitching up the thing whenever I can.  See?  That's the key--whenever I can.  This whole mom of an infant business has been limiting my time in front of the Bernina to maybe an hour or two a day.  Plus this past weekend we were out of the house due to multiple obligations.  I had hoped to be able to sew a couple of outfits.  Now I'll be lucky to finish one!

I am, of course, quite disappointed to be faced with so few garment options for this year's Queen Mary Art Deco Festival, but that is just the reality of a postpartum body.  Most of the pieces in my closet do not fit at the moment.  With the help of some foundation garments, I can barely fit into a couple of dresses that were on the larger side.  That will have to do.

(Oh, how I wish that What Katie Did's Hollywood location were opening a few days earlier.  Alas, but I will be there when then do open next week!)

At any rate, I'll be enjoying myself this weekend whether or not I'm in the most wonderful Deco-era clothes or not.  I must remember that my friends are not going to be judging me upon each and every ensemble I throw together.  

Declan will be spend two days with his auntie while we are "away."  I'm equally excited and nervous.  Excited that he'll be able to spend time with family, nervous that I'm going to miss him like mad.  I know that I need to spend some time away from him.  Recharge my batteries and all that.  But he is such the focus of my everyday that I know I will constantly wonder what he is doing.  Thank heavens for technology, I will be able to ask for photos and updates via text.

Lily isn't sewing

Nope.  I am currently listening to the milk-blurbly snores of my funny baby.  He is catnapping at the boob leaving me to type this one-handed.  Rather appropriate for the last day of World Breastfeeding Week.

Last week I played the birthday trump card and scored a trip to the marketplace at Costume College.  While there, I picked up two more Decades of Style patterns.  I've decided that so long as I still have this heavier version of me (thanks, postpartum me!), I am going to at least make some flattering, well-fitting attire for myself.

My figure isn't nearly as waspy, but whose is?

When I've been able to squeeze in a bit of time here and there, I've been working on a toile/muslin of the 1950s Gourmet Skirt.  Cute, isn't it?

I crafted the toile in the largest size the pattern offered believing that, as it was smaller than my last waist measurement, it would be snug.  But, no, it ended up waaaay to big.  Yay?  So I'm back to stage one.  Last night I managed to tear the toile apart, iron out the seams, and reassemble one pocket.  All hopes of stitching this morning went out the window when Brian left for archery practice leaving me alone with the babe.

Baby boy is still napping while boobing.  Very cute, but rather limiting.  Guess I'll go back to watching streaming episodes of I Love Lucy...